Searching for the Perfect Pair of Trousers

Have you ever spent an entire weekend moving between high street shops or endlessly scrolling online in search of the perfect pair of trousers?

Did you ever find a pair that fitted well?

You didn’t?

Neither did I, so you’re not alone.

Over the years, I have chosen countless pairs of trousers that looked fabulous on the hanger or on screen, only to disappoint the moment I put them on. Some create strange pockets of space over my hips where I swear I could hide a couple of baguettes, yet the waist fits perfectly.

Other pairs carry a huge amount of fabric from the hips to the waist, leaving the waistband hovering near my ribcage. Am I supposed to fill that space with my stomach and posterior?

Because I don’t.

How large would they need to be for that to happen?

When the Trouser Pattern Lets You Down

Yet still, I have experienced the opposite situation too where the waistband is so low, my bottom is left feeling a cool breeze upon it  and getting more than it’s fair share of Vitamin D.And then, there is the low riding  scenario which is when the trouser crotch resides halfway down my inner thighs and ends up doing a strange straightjackety trouser thing.Not great if you’re trying to rock a streamlined sophisticated corporate style vibe. If I drop anything, I can’t squat to pick it up unless I hike my up my pants, drawing my trouser hems up to my calves in the hope they will reunite with my ankles at some point after I have retrieved the fallen object.

How Mass Production Shapes Fit

Not everybody knows that in the fashion and costume industry mass produced garments manufactured by vast factories work to body specifications which have been collated through statistical data.They are harvested by organisations which have scrutinised the public through various means and filtered the array of measurements across the public spectrum into set measurements. Those measurements are meant to represent us all. Size sets representative of the ‘average’ person. Every fashion house and company then uses that set of average measurements to create their collections.

When Standard Sizes Don’t Match Real Bodies

I began my career in a fast fashion company after years in the industry. Consequently, my early job involved measuring fabric shrinkage before and after washing. Furthermore, factories used this fabric to create mass-produced garments for retail shops. Moreover, I worked with company models and performed precise calculations to ensure a correct fit.

Fashion brands often use a specific muse or model to represent their target customer. Accordingly, these companies focus on specific sizes, lifestyles, and pay scales to sell their collections. Specifically, this model helps define the entire brand identity. Thus, the system works well for people who fit standard body shapes and price brackets.

However, problems arise when a style you love simply does not fit your body. Consequently, many shoppers struggle when the size specifications fail to match their actual waist or bust measurements. Furthermore, this discrepancy creates a frustrating gap between fashion and reality. Moreover, we must ask what this means for the average person. Accordingly, bespoke tailoring offers the perfect solution to these industry limitations.

Life Beyond Standard Sizes

People who are not an average size often face difficult choices regarding their wardrobe. Consequently, they must pay for expensive alterations or choose bespoke clothing. Furthermore, many people now choose to make their own clothes to ensure a perfect fit. Moreover, this trend fuels the growing interest in learning professional sewing skills.

Let’s face it, our bodies change as we navigate life’s many challenges. Accordingly, very few people remain the same size they were at age 21. Specifically, I am certainly not one of those people. Additionally, I suspect that I am not alone in this experience.

Learning to pattern cut and sew is not necessarily a cheap affair. Nonetheless, the investment in quality materials and a working sewing machine is worthwhile. Furthermore, hand sewing remains a valid option for those following traditional techniques. Moreover, you will never suffer the embarrassment of wearing an identical outfit as someone else.

I have witnessed such awkward encounters at opera houses and weddings. Consequently, the tension reminds me of warring cats with arched backs and unsheathed claws. Accordingly, bespoke fashion ensures you always stand out with unique, individual style.

Why I Draft My Own Trousers

With my larger than average waist and bust-line, I realized a long time ago if I wanted a well-fitting outfit, in this case a pair of trousers, I would have to draft it and make it myself or spend a lifetime wearing men’s trousers which are actually very nice, but has too much fabric in the crotch area, if you catch my drift. And the thighs are not shapely. And as for the colors available, it’s hard to find them in my favorite colors of red, purple, lime green and orange.Luckily, having parents who worked in the garment construction and costume industry, it did not take much for me to follow them down the same path as I learned pattern cutting and sewing techniques for men and women, but ultimately becoming a theatrical tailor.It has become my career for the past 30+ years and have constructed a vast array of garments for countless productions, collections and projects. I specialise in opera and ballet, disciplines where precision tailoring and costume construction play a vital role in performance and movement Theatrical costume.So, you are probably thinking, how does that help you?

How I Can Help You

I possess the skills to help you create bespoke clothes, which may help you in the quest for a better fitting garment.Having enjoyed a long career in the business, I have also written two books.My first book – ‘Simple Tailoring & Alterations’ is a comprehensive text book which covers every day alterations which the average person may require with regards to altering their garments, from how to shorten pair of trousers to reshaping the neckline of a dress.My second book – ‘The Waistcoat Workbook’ is one which delves into the history of the garment through to its modern uses in the 21st century. It also contains step-by- step guides on how to draft a selection the garments from start to finish for men and women. It covers Victorian, Cosplay and Steampunk aspects too.Following the successful launch of my latest book, whilst attending a number events I have had numerous enquiries from the sewing community with regards to whether I could share some of my knowledge with them to enhance their skills.

The Trouser Pattern Project

With this in mind I have been conducting workshops at the Knit Stitch Shows in recent years to enable and empower others to achieve their goal of creating stylish and well fitting clothes for themselves or for others to enjoy. This will be done by the continuation the workshops I currently teach at the events in London – Measurement Taking for Men & Women and the Pocket Making Masterclass.

I will be working on a number of stand-alone projects, the first of which is the Basic Trouser Pattern Draft. Other things will follow, but first things first.

I must fulfil my promise to those wonderful ladies and thank them for their support by working on the trouser draft they requested. You can explore related work and previous projects in my portfolio.

This project is one that will reduce the chances of ending up with baggy hip pouches, low-hanging crotches, and high-tide waistbands.

<p data-start=”715″ data-end=”863″>The beauty of the exercise is that, with the set of measurements you will be encouraged to take, the draft instructions should work for most people.

So stick around, you may pick up a tip or two.

It’s going to

be fun!